I have found a way to eliminate the awkwardness of the starting chain on an Elmer Square.
The sample on the left is made with a starting ch5 in the corner, which equals a dc, ch2. The sample on the right is made with a different method, which I will describe below.
In the square on the left, the holes in the joined corners are larger than the other holes on the same square. The square on the right has more uniform holes.
In the square on the left, the starting chain makes the bottom of the stitch hide behind the last stitch of the round, so it appears that the bottoms of the two stitches are crossed over each other. In the square on the right, the bottoms of all 4 stitches are visible, just like all the other corners.
Here’s my preferred method for the Elmer Square.
Ch4. Sl st to form ring.
Rnd 1. Do not ch1. Work a sc, ch1 (equals 1st dc),dc, ch2. [3dc, ch2] three times. Then work final dc. To join this round, slip stitch in the top of the regular dc, not in the chain stitch at the beginning of the round.
Rnd 2. Do not ch1. Work sc in ch-2 sp, ch1 (equals dc). Dc, ch2, 2dc in same space. First corner is made. Dc in next 3 sts. ([2dc, ch2, 2dc] in ch-2 sp, dc in next 3 sts) three times. Sl st as in Rnd 1.
Continue with as many rounds as desired.
First corner is made.
Last stitch of each round goes here.
Slip stitch to join in top of first regular dc of round, not in chain above beginning sc.
Round is complete. Note that first [sc, ch1] looks like a regular dc, now that the round is properly joined. Use an invisible join (a.k.a needle join) on final round.
Crochet Pattern by Cheryl Dee Floyd
(Click here for a nicely formatted, downloadable and printable version of this pattern available for $2.00 US in my Ravelry store. The expanded version contains many more photos that show the various steps.)
This flower is made in three sections which are sewn together. The round element in the center, which resembles a gumdrop, can also be used separately as a button on any other project. Instructions are included for making the flower into a brooch.
* 0.3 oz worsted-weight yarn. Samples in photo above are made with Red Heart Unforgettable, which is a self-striping yarn with long color changes.
* Sewing thread
* Jewelry findings – one (1.5”) pin back per flower (for brooch) or appropriately sized hair clip or barrette
* G/6-4.25 mm hook for Unforgettable yarn (H/8-5.0 mm hook for Super Saver)
* Yarn needle
* Regular sewing needle
4” to 5” diameter, depending on yarn and/or hook used.
bl = back loop; ch = chain; dc = double crochet (UK – treble crochet); edc = extended double-crochet (UK – extended treble crochet); hdc = half-double crochet (UK – half-treble crochet); hk = hook; lp(s) = loop(s); NJ = needle join; rnd = round; sc = single crochet (UK – double crochet); sl st = slip stitch; sstj = slip stitch to join; st(s) = stitch(es); tr = treble crochet (UK – double treble crochet); yo = yarn over.
Modified hdc – On last yarn over, do a yarn under instead of a yarn over. This will keep each stitch closer to the previous stitch, thereby eliminating unsightly gaps.
Needle join (NJ) (a.k.a. Invisible Join)
* Leaving last lp on hk, cut working yarn about 4 to 6 inches from hk. Pull newly-cut yarn out through the lp on hk, making sure to keep the last lp loose. Set hk aside and thread end of yarn through yarn needle. Insert needle from front to back under both top lps of st indicated (usually, first st of rnd). Pull tail through, keeping tension similar to surrounding sts.
* If first st of rnd is a sl st, pull tail through and keep tension same as surrounding sts. This will keep the st count accurate.
* If first st of rnd is a standing st (begun with slip knot on hk), pull tail tightly in order to keep from adding lp to st count. Insert needle under bl, from front to back of last st of rnd where yarn was originally pulled through.
* Turn work over so wrong/back side is facing and use needle to weave in end, making sure to keep tension similar to surrounding work. Snip end of yarn. Weave in ends. See photo tutorial: http://www.ravelry.com/projects/CherylDeeCrochet/tutorial—needle-join
Pointy picot – Ch2. Insert hk in 2nd ch from hk, yo, pull up lp and leave on hk. Insert hk under 2 front strands (front loop and loop below) of last st worked, yo, pull up lp and leave on hk. Yo, pull through all 3 lps. (The downloadable, printable version of this pattern in my Ravelry store contains photos that illustrate this process.)
Rnd 1. Make magic ring, ch1. [Working over yarn tail, sc into ring, ch3] 5 times. Pull on beginning yarn tail to close ring. Sl st in first sc to join.
Rnd 2. [In next ch-3 sp: sl st, ch2, 3dc, ch2, sl st] 5 times. Sstj.
Rnd 3. Ch1. Flip piece over to work this round into the backs of the petals formed in rnd 2. Sts should not show through on front. [In next petal: sl st under 2 lower strands of middle dc, ch4] 5 times. Sstj in beginning sl st.
Rnd 4. Ch1. Flip piece over again so right side is facing you. [In next ch-4 sp: sl st, ch3, 5edc, ch3, sl st] 5 times. Sstj in beginning sl st.
Rnd 5. Ch3. Flip piece over to back again. [In next petal: sl st under 2 lower strands of middle (3rd) edc, ch5] 5 times. Sstj in first sl st. If continuing with same yarn color, skip to Rnd 6 now. Alternate method: If desired, use new color to represent leaves, attaching new yarn with [sl st under 2 lower strands in middle (3rd) edc, ch5] 5 times. Flip flower so front is facing you.
Rnd 6. Ch1 and cinch down. With front of flower facing you, [in ch-5 sp: sl st, ch4, 3tr, picot, 3tr, ch4, sl st] 5 times. NJ.
Step 1. Leaving a 12-inch beginning tail, make a slip knot, ch4, sstj in first ch made to form ring.
Step 2. Do not work over yarn tail and do not ch1. Work 18 modified hdc into ring. Cut yarn leaving a 12-inch tail. NJ to first st of rnd. Do not weave in ends. Remove yarn needle from ending yarn tail.
Step 3. Thread needle with beginning yarn tail. Whip stitch through the back-back strand of every st (loop below bl, on back of st). Be careful not to split any strands. Remove needle and gently but firmly pull yarn until center of work becomes slightly convex, with the front side out. Remove yarn needle from beginning yarn tail.
Step 4. Thread needle with ending yarn tail. Whip stitch through the front loop of every stitch around. Remove needle and pull yarn to gather the stitches, until piece takes the form of a sphere or gumdrop. Pull on both yarn tails to ensure piece is as spherical as possible. If desired, tie yarn tails in a knot. Leave both yarn tails free to use for attaching gumdrop center to flower.
Place Flower Center on top (front) of Flower, pull tails of Flower Center to back through center hole of Flower. Thread yarn needle with one tail and sew securely around posts that radiate out from center. Weave in ends. Do the same with second tail. If desired, you may use this second tail to sew flower as an applique to another project.
Yarn Circle Backing and Pin Back
Make a magic ring, ch3, 15 edc into ring. Depending on your yarn thickness, it may be necessary to add a round of 2 sc in each stitch in order to increase the diameter. Circle should fill the space inside last rnd of flower. NJ.
Using yarn and yarn needle, sew circle to back of flower to stabilize it for use as a brooch, etc. Use regular sewing needle and thread to attach pin back.
Copyright 2018 by Cheryl Dee Floyd. All Rights Reserved. You are welcome to give away or to sell any items you make from this pattern. You may not copy, distribute, or otherwise publish this pattern as your own. More patterns: https://www.ravelry.com/stores/cheryl-dee or https://www.etsy.com/shop/CherylDeeCrochet
I’m calling this the “Mountain Picot,” because it’s very pointy, as opposed to most picots I see, which are rather rounded. Here are some photos that show how it’s done.
Chain 2. Insert hk into 2nd ch from hk.
YO and pull up lp. Insert hk under 2 strands shown.
YO and pull up lp to make 3 lps on hk.
…and pull thru all lps and continue with next sts in pattern.
Give this a try and let me know how you like it!
See my newest Etsy listing for this classy cloche hat with detachable flower brooch!
Have you ever wanted to crochet a hexagon shape and make it into a square shape by adding rounds? Here are some photos that show my experimentation with that.
with that process.
These photos accompany the full written pattern, which is available in my Ravelry and Etsy stores.
The first slide show demonstrates the procedure through the Optional Overlay Round 1 and then the full hexagon through the last round.
This second slide show demonstrates the procedure for the Optional Overlay Round 2.